Sourcing a K20r
I had Jeremy at Redzone get
me a K20r for my project CRX. The price on one of these
is not cheap, so be prepared to spend an arm and a leg!
Removal
take out your old engine, refer to my b16a how too.
Mounts
The hasport mounts are the only ones that I can
trust... They are not an easy install however because they make you weld in
the passenger side mount. The tranny is activated
by a cable to hydro much like te efb2 kit I
had on my gsr crx. I had Jeremy at Redzone weld in the mount for me.
Eng bay prep
Remove the passenger side engine mount bracket. Drill out the spot welds,
and chisel off. Then, remove the radiator supports
the same way. Last, hammer out the rear x member for tranny clearance as hasport
recommends in the directions. I had to notch the headlight area for alternator
clearance as well.
Relocate the proportion valve so the eng can hug
the shock tower. May be a good time to paint the
eng bay as well.
Axles
I went with the stage 2 from hasport/driveshaft
shop. These axles are made for the k20 intermediate shaft. They will simply
plug in to a ex/si/or dx hub no problem. You can also use the base rsx axles
from what im told!
Wiring
Rywire now offers the complete P&P harness. Please give us a call at www.rywire.com
The Shifter
The shifter is a tricky one! I purchased a Karcepts.com
relocation kit, I hope he makes it for the EF chassis, but thus far he is
not, so the one I have is special! I used his template and cut where it said
with my sawzall. It came out nice. I guess.
You follow the directions and mount the rsx or type r shifter on the plate,
and mount it to the chassis. This relocates the shifter below so you can use
a factory console. I had to trim the shifter box in some areas for clearance...
whats new, almost everything needs a little custom fitting when doing this
swap.
Header
I had a custom header made from raser-x. Its made for the k20 in a crx, and
features a 2.5 inch collector, and a tri step design. You will need flex pipe,
and some exhaust work to finish the job. The Hasport one makes nice numbers
for the price tag, you can get this piece for under 400 bux!
Cooling
I also went to raser-x for this piece. He modded a eg radiator and mounted
it on its side. The overflow is relocated and the pipes are angled. The top
hose is a universal flexiable one, and the lower is 2 90 degree ones running
up to the thermostat.
The EG radiator cant really fit in stock form on a stock front cross member. The hood wont close, and the radiator cant be leaned back due to the throttle body in the way.
On my next K20 crx, we are running a Dodge Neon non ac radiator. This radiator should work out just fine, ill let everyone know how it goes!
Fuel system
I went with a golden eagle rail, aem universal fuel pressure regulator, and
a universal gauge mounted to it. You need to mount
the fuel filter higher up on the firewall. There are different ways to run
the system, some do it my way, others with a return...
Basically my system starts at the filter, there is a banjo fitting leading to a 6- size hose, and then a fitting to the fuel regulator. It then exits the fuel regulator in 2 spots, one is a barg fitting to the factory return, and the other is a 90 degree elbow through the fuel line to a 45 degree fitting into the golden eagle fuel rail.
Also, the factory fuel filter needs to be relocated up a hair, it cant be mounted in the stock location due to header clearance.
Fuel System Parts List
Prolite 350 black hose - 5ft - 350006ERL- $30
Single Banjo Hose Ends - 997591ERL- $16
0° - Straight - AT800106ERL - $7
A.N. to A.N. Adapter Union Reducer - Male 991912ERL - $5.00
Universal AEM FPR - $135
A.N. to A.N. Adapter Union Reducer - Male 991912ERL - $5.00
Model M: 1 1/2" Shock Proof Stainless Gauge - 100189-100 - $27
45° - Bent Tube - 704606ERL - $13
90° - Tube - AT809106ERL - $21
45° - Tube - AT804606ERL - $21
A.N. to A.N. Adapter Union Reducer - Male 991912ERL - $5.00
GE fuel rail - RSX - $115
Total $400
Cables
The crx dx throttle cable works great, also a
si, ep3, or da integra should aslo work fine.. The crx clutch cable works
too, but you need to trim the rubber stopper to make it fit... The DA Integra
one fits better.
Alternator and Pulleys
I decided to remove the idler pulley, tensioner, and the ac from my engine.
You must tension the alternator with washers using this method. You also must
run a bigger AEM pulley for the RSX so the belt
dosent rub on itself. It will be
close, but should be good. The belt needed is a POLY COG 5070390 by Delco.
The alternator does not fit, so I cut the headlight housing for clearance.
We are trying a ep3 pulley on the next k20 crx, so we will give updates!
Brake booster
The brake booster is located on the front now, on the intake manifold, so
a long hose will need to be purchased to reach.
Heater Hoses
The rear heater hoses will need to be ran, I used a crx si hose cut, and a
universal hose from autozone. I dont have the
heater switcher (door) hooked up as of right now.
Front X-member
The Jimfab bar dosent clear, so you will need
a fullrace or cut your stock one to make clearance.
Thermo switch and Coolant temp
You need to add a b-series obd1/2 fan thermo switch to either the radiator,
or buy the hasport inline coolant hose piece. You can also mount the thermo
switch on the hasport piece, or in the intake manifold using a 3/8" to
1/4" reducer. And cap off the vac line.
Update: I was having issues with the fan, and my hondata... I ditched the fan switch, and now I have wired a relay up to function FanC. This way I can set Hodata to be my fan switch, I can tell the program to turn the fan on at a set degree.
Charcoal Canister
I will be running a canister at some point, but as of now I am not.
Charge harness
You need to hook the 2 6awg wires to the fuse box in the correct locations.
1 goes to the starter fuse box location, and the other goes to the alternator
location. You will need to extend them to reach wherever you mounted your
fuse box.
Battery
I decided to mount a small Odyssey battery in the rear with a custom mounting
bracket from summitracing.com . I just ran a power wire from the fusebox,
and another to chassis ground.
Cluster
You will need a cluster with a electronic vehicle speed sensor, the crx one
is cable. You can use the crx sir unit, or a dc integra/ ek civic. Possible
S2000 cluster in the works! :)
You can also use a cable driven unit if you use the d series vss unit in
the k tranny case.
Hood
The hood will close on a sir hood only. It still touches the dipstick and
the oil cap however. And you have to cut the underside webbing. I had to use
a smaller oil cap, and I also had to cut the dipstick.
Price List !
fuel gauge $23
custom raser-x header $900
custom raser-x eg radiator $500
aem pulley kit (used) I only needed the alt pulley $90
intake from a eg cut down $0
washers and bolts to tension the alternator $2
qty2, 4 awg butt connectors $2
fuel lines $125
changeover- eng, tranny, ecu, axles, shifter, cables, exc… $6,000
mounts Hasport $550
belt POLY COG 5070390 $19
act clutch (HD/SS) $370
GE fuel rail $120
3/8" to 1/8" reducer $4
heeltoe battery $0
Battery tie down beacket $40
karcepts shifter relocation kit $150
shift knob $50
filler neck for radiator mor63745 $24
full race bar $390
radiator cap for moroso piece $5
spal fan $80
wiring relays $5
denso air to fuel o2 sensor $180
hondata Kpro (Matt = the man!) $500
sir cluster and plugs $50
hasport (driveshaft shop) axles stg 2 $650
lower hose $9
upper universal hose $10
flex pipe, and exhaust work $80
4awg wire for relocation $12
aem fpr (universal) $140
Total = $11,080
