1.Read about axles HERE
2.Read about shift linkage HERE
3.Read about other specs HERE
4.Read about wire harness Si, HFHERE (DX HERE)
Engine Preparation
1. Change all possible gaskets, belts, fluids, and hoses.
2. Replace the clutch, flywheel, and water pump if funds permit (recommended).
Some Helpful Hints…
1. Buy a shorter than stock alternator belt, it will help with alternator
clearance.
2. Buy a polyurethane shift stabilizer kit from www.suspension.com ($9.00)
for the 94 del sol DOHC VTEC.
3. Buy the A, and B washers, and the bolt that connects the stabilizer linkage
to the tranny. Your crx ones are different.
4. Buy the 3 bolts that attach the rear mount to the block.
5. Make sure you have the correct axles, read below.
Taking Engine Out
1. Remove intake from intake manifold, and disconnect the breather hose from
valve cover
2. Disconnect battery (neg. side first) and valve cover ground.
3. Jack up car, put on stands, drain tranny/ engine oil.
4. Remove under car plastics
5. Drain radiator fluid
6. Remove the A pipe of the header. 2 bolts to cat, 4 support bolts, and 3
A pipe to B pipe bolts.
7. Remove axles. Take off wheels, Remove hub bolt 32mm, separate knuckle from
lower arm, tap out exposed axle from knuckle, and pop out axle shafts connected
to the tranny with a pry bar.
8. Remove shift linkage, and stabilizer linkage. May need special tool to
remove the pin that goes into tranny (I used a air chisel).
9. Disconnect the 3 (I think) vacuum lines from the intake manifold
10. Remove radiator hoses, and remove radiator. 4 bolts hold it in place,
keep fan connected, and just unclip connection.
11. Remove the 2 coolant lines in back of the motor
12. Disconnect the 5 engine harness clips, 3 on pass. side, 2 on driver side
strut tower.
13. Remove battery tray, 4 visible bolts, 1 under, kind of hidden
14. Remove throttle cable
15. Remove clutch cable
16. Remove speedo cable. Connect into back of tranny, don't loose the clip.
17. Remove all ac system if applicable
18. Get engine mount bolts loosened
19. Secure engine on hoist
20. Get some tension
21. Disconnect the 2 fuel lines
22. Slowly lift out motor, (with your carabineers, and rock climbing straps!!)
make sure you didn't miss any lines that may be connected.
23. Take stupid pictures with you in the engine bay!!!
Before Lowering into Engine Bay…
1. Removing the third rear factory engine mount bolt can be a bitch, get
yourself a 17mm box wrench, and stick the box end through the front side of
the mount, the kink on the box wrench will be just enough to get a hold of
the bolt. Hammer the mount all the way to the left, hook the bolt with the
box wrench, and loosen the bolt by turning the whole mount. It is hard to
explain, but after some trial and error, I figured this out.
2. Clean the engine bay, you won't have any other time when it's this easy.
3. Depending on what header you select, you might have to notch the front
x-member. DC 4-2-1 just cut off front mount. I used an air chisel to cut it
away, then smoothed it with body filler, and paint.
DC 4-1 cut about ¾ inch deep, and 2.5 inches each way (5 inches total)
right in the center.
4. Now, hopefully you bought Hasport mounts, follow the directions
on how to prep the engine bay, they tell you perfectly. Be sure to hammer
a small dent for alternator clearance (shorter alternator belt helps). Also
fold down rear x-member for rear bracket clearance.
5. Carefully take off the Si/ HF harness from the D series, and put it on
the B series
What Axles do I use?
Be sure to match the axles to the intermediate shaft, For example, I used
a integra intermediate shaft, so I use the 90-93 integra axles. If you have
a SIR engine it may have the SIR intermediate shaft, you will need custom
made SIR axles. Read Hasport's link for instructions. These axles can be made
with 89 integra axles with the 90-91 integra inner joint.
Becarefull here, your b16a may have came from a jdm integra (mine did) so
you need to know what int. shaft you have. In general, the swap with the S1
or J1 tyrannies are a jdm integra engine and will have a integra int. shaft.
Also if there is a unit on the intake manifold that has hoses leading towards
the intake pipe, that is another sign of the jdm integra engine. Engine importers
are known to mix and match, so be careful.
Lowering Into Engine Bay
Start by installing the rear mount, and tighten the 2 bolts. When lowering,
try and get tranny side mount started, but not tight. It helps to get all
three bolts in before lining up main bushing bolt. Insert rear bracket at
the same time. Get the bushing bolt in first, and don't tighten it all the
way. Next, shake engine around, and try and line up the upper rear mount bracket
bolt. Get that started. Go under the car, and start the other 2 bolts in the
rear bracket. Last, install the driver side mount, it should be self-explanatory.
Torque all bolts to factory specs (43ft-lbs, I think). Make sure everything
is clearing correctly, and is tight.
How do I wire up my Vtec sloenoid, Vtec oil pressure, knock sensor, and
2nd o2 sensor.
4 Wires and a ground will need to be added to your factory harness. I
just went on ebay and got one for $50. You can also get one from hasport.com.
OR make your own.
1. Vtec solenoid- Run a wire from the Vtec solenoid to the ecu pin A8
2. Vtec oil pressure- Run a wire from Vtec oil pressure to ecu pin B5 (remove
existing pin if applicable)
Run a ground wire to the Vtec oil pressure, and ground on a solid place.
3. 2nd o2 sensor- Run a wire from the 2nd o2 sensor to ecu pin C8.
4. Knock Sensor- Run a wire from the Knock sensor to ecu pin B19.(remove existing
pin if applicable)
HERE is a good
illustrated pic!!
Hooking up the B16a
1. Start with the axles, and remove the knuckle spacers, and dust seals (on
the axle ends) like hasport recommends. Install the full-spline axle on the
intermediate shaft, and the half-spline axle on the passenger side of the
tranny.
2. Cap off, or loop the hoses that come off the speedometer sensor on the
rear of the tranny, they are for power steering, and are un-needed.
3. If you use the factory header, the flange that bolts to the cat will be
in the wrong position, and a little short of the cat (sometimes). You may
have to take a visit to a muffler shop to get a short section welded in. DC
4-2-1 fit my car perfectly, it reached fine, and it bolted to the cat.
4. With the DC header (99-00 civic si), you have one 02-sensor bung in the
collector, near the cat. I elected to plug it up with a bolt, and get 2 bungs
welded in factory B16A locations, and I also added the factory heat shield
(welded it on custom).
5. Some crx's have a second solenoid next to the map sensor and the evap sensor
on the firewall, others have this solenoid on the back of the intake manifold,
my 89 Si was on the intake manifold. The b16a ecu doesn't need this sensor
(was not used in Japan) so just leave unplugged, or covered up with tape or
something.
6. When installing the clutch cable, the cable must be trimmed for proper
fit. I cut about 12mm off the bottom section. Basically there is about a inch
and a half of rubber at the bottom of the cable, and I made a cut all the
way around, but not too deep, and cut out the excess keeping it the same shape.
It is very difficult to explain, but hopefully you can understand this once
you get there. If not get a Teg one.
7. One vacuum line will need to be lengthened, and the purge cutoff solenoid
will need to be "teed" into the fuel pressure regulator for a vacuum
source. The red wrapped hose that goes to the charcoal canister are 2 different
sizes, so I used half si, and half b16a, and used a fitting that goes from
big to small purchased at the hardware store. Here
is a Si-R vacuum diagram to help you.
8. The radiator hoses are too big for the factory radiator, I used 1"
long cut pieces of the factory hose, and used it as a shim under the Integra
hose. Lube up both, and slide it over, also the upper hose needs to be trimmed
1" on the radiator side, and 1/2" on the engine side.
9. Run your custom sub harness from the 4 added sensors to the ecu.
10. Finish the rest in reverse order.
PS, .If it does not start check for fuel, air, and spark. I had a non-active fuel injector; I removed it and cleaned it up. It was cool after that. Also, the firing order is important. B-series are different than D-series. Thanks for the help on the swap Will.
PPS, Make sure you have your o2 sensors in the correct order, if they are
swapped it will run like crap. Also, please don't do funky wiring on the o2
sensors; run them both, like Honda had them. Nothing but problems will come
if you cut corners.